 |
Papa Woody Wax |
A few words about scraping. The synthetics are very hard waxes and are therefore very brittle. If you try to scrape when the wax has cooled it will chip. Most hard waxes will do this. If you like to scrape, scrape while the wax is still warm, but keep in mind that the point of scraping to remove excess wax from your base. It's better not to waste lots of wax by putting too much on your board to start with.
Papa Woody uses a different technique than the usual spread wax, let cool, & scrape method.
We've been waxing using the following method for many years. We only recommend the conventional scraping method if you seriously race, and even then we don't recommend putting lots of wax on only to scrape most of it off. That wastes lots of wax. See comments about racing below. |
To apply Papa Woody Wax |
 |
A few words about scraping. The synthetics are hard waxes and therefore very brittle. If you try to scrape when the wax has cooled and set up, it will chip. Most hard waxes will do this. You really need to scrape while the wax is still hot and soft. |
Here's a new one...Try it without scraping. We know. Thin wins..Thick sticks.....You lazy bastards...We've heard it all. We've been riding using the following method for many years. We only recommend scraping if you seriously race. See comments about racing below.
Always work in a well ventilated area. Warm your board in the house to room temperature before waxing up in your well-ventilated shop. Clean off all old wax and dirt from your base using standard hot-scrape methods and/or citrus base cleaners. Use a quality iron and make sure it is clean.
Pre-heat a quality iron at low-to-medium heat for about 15 minutes. Don't smoke your wax. You will see smoke billowing off your iron when you touch the wax to it if your iron is too hot. The wax should melt and spread easily at about 210°F. Never overheat any fluoro and PTFE containing waxes because dangerous fumes occur with heat greater than 575°F. That's also way too hot for all bases. Save your lungs - wear a mask.
Quickly rub your hot iron on your base immediately prior to putting wax on your base. This will help to open up the pores in the base that will hold the wax. Drip wax on to your board sparingly. You want as thin a smear of wax as possible, use just enough wax to cover the base. Another way is to touch the wax to your iron and then the iron to the board to be sure you are applying a very thin layer of wax. Spread the wax from tip to tail using your iron to cover the entire base.
After you have initially spread the wax all over the base, start at the tip of the board in the center. Turn the iron sideways and slowly pull the iron in one long stroke the entire length of the board. The idea is to melt the wax into the base without damaging the base material. You should have about 2 inches of melted wax following the trailing edge of the iron. Keep moving your iron all the way to the tail. Don't stop because if you do you may overheat your base. Again, the idea is to melt the wax completely into the pores of the base without damaging it. The base of your board should be warm to the touch, not hot. Be careful! We recommend using this wax and technique only on sintered bases. Extruded bases are a softer material and can be damaged easily by a cheap iron. |
Remove excess wax from your iron by wiping your iron off on a clean rag
between each pass. Repeat the long, slow pull down each edge,
overlapping the middle stripe. If you do this right, you should have a
very thin layer of wax that is fairly smooth.
Skis usually only take 1 finishing pass. With snowboards usually 3
passes will do it but smaller irons or wider boards may require more
than 3 passes.
|
 |
|
 |
If you see stress cracks form in the wax after riding, your wax is too
thick. It is normal to see stress cracks in the binding screw dimples.
In the photo to the left, we would expect cracks where you see the
thicker wax lines at the edge of the iron pass, not in the middle of
the pass.
|
|
| We put more wax on than we normally would in the photo so it would be easy to see. When you wax your board try for even less wax than that. The more you wax up, the easier it gets. |
| If you race or feel you must scrape, you need to scrape while the wax is still hot and soft. Some techs scrape in sections while the wax is still liquid (I.e., wax a section then immediately scrape while it's hot, then move on to the next and repeat). Synthetic waxes will chip if allowed to cool before scraping. If chipping happens, add wax if needed, use the iron over the chipped area and then re-scrape while the wax is still warm. |
 |
| Allow the wax to cool for about 15 minutes. Take a green scrub pad and buff the base going from tip to tail to help work the wax into the base. If the wax is not cool at this point it will clog up your scratch pad. Keep at it until all of the wax ridges on the base are gone, then go fly! |
|
Papa
Woody is a
US
Registered Trademark
of Sierra Waxworks
Sierra Waxworks, Reno
Nevada All Rights
Reserved
Top |
|
|
|
|
| Designed and hosted by Origin 3 Web Design |
|
|
